Article Overview
- It is important to understand the unique characteristics and needs of skin of color when considering skincare procedures.
- Be sure to seek skincare professionals who are experienced and knowledgeable in treating skin of color to ensure safe and effective results.
- There are many procedures that are suitable for skin of color, including chemical peels, laser treatments, and microneedling, each with different benefits and considerations.
- Follow your provider's recommended pre- and post-treatment skincare routine to promote recovery and achieve optimal post-procedure results.
Every person’s skin is unique, and the factors that dictate the appropriate professional treatments including age, skin type, and specific concerns such as discoloration, visible signs of aging, scars, and more. However, skin tone plays a significant role when considering professional procedures for skin of color, and this variable cannot be overlooked.
Just as the ideal in-office procedures for acne-prone, dry skin, sensitive skin, and visible signs of aging vary, so do the options for melanin-rich skin. Deeper skin tones have different needs and may require a different professional treatment approach.
Regardless of skin tone, it’s imperative to schedule a comprehensive skin evaluation when considering any professional procedure. This is particularly important when exploring treatments for skin of color. A few pointers for navigating this process include:
- Ask to see before-and-after photos of other BIPOC patients or clients
- Specifically look for results that were achieved in those with a skin tone similar to yours
- Ensure the provider has experience treating patients with your skin tone and type
SkinCeuticals had a conversation with board-certified dermatologist and Assistant Professor of Dermatology at the University of Minnesota Medical School Dr. Jenny Liu to discuss professional treatments for skin of color, including those that are safe and effective—and those that are not.
SKINCEUTICALS: Skin science and professional procedures have come a long way over the past few decades. What impact has this had for those with skin of color?
DR. LIU: Advancements in dermatological technology have opened a new era of inclusive aesthetic care, where individuals with melanin-rich skin can safely benefit from a multitude of professional procedures. Ranging from Fitzpatrick Skin Types IV to VI, these skin tones possess a rich melanin content that confers both protective benefits and particular sensitivities, especially when undergoing dermatological procedures. Understanding that skin tone significantly influences treatment choices, SkinCeuticals stands at the forefront of this evolution, ensuring that every skin type and tone can access office-based treatments tailored for visible skin improvement.
SKINCEUTICALS: What are the special considerations when treating skin of color with in-office procedures?
DR. LIU: As with all skin tones, a thorough consultation and skin analysis is mandatory, as each person’s skin history and reactivity is different. When treating melanin-rich skin, it is important to be mindful that inflammation can lead to discoloration. To reduce the chance of this side effect, I often start patients on a skincare regimen that minimizes discoloration, strengthens the skin barrier, and reduces inflammation before any office-based procedure.
SKINCEUTICALS: Are there any risks associated with in-office treatments for people with skin of color?
DR. LIU: The biggest risk when performing professional treatments on skin of color is post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), which causes the skin to develop discoloration in response to a perceived injury—including minor ones like insect bites. Skincare professionals can assess the risk of PIH by evaluating the skin thoroughly and asking patients about their skin healing history. If they are prone to PIH after a blemish heals, have experienced changes in pigmentation due to hormonal fluctuations caused by pregnancy, or have developed PIH after an in-office treatment in the past, we can tailor our approach to provide a safe way to improve several skin concerns without the risk of post-procedure discoloration.
SKINCEUTICALS: Are there any skin treatments that should be avoided by those with melanin-rich skin?
DR. LIU: I like to find alternatives to aggressive ablative lasers and medium to deep chemical peels that remove the uppermost layers of the skin, as this can increase the risk of PIH in melanin-rich skin. I also tend to avoid Intense Pulsed Light (IPL), because these treatments deliver several wavelengths of light in brief pulses that generate heat. Darker skin tones tend to absorb more heat, which can lead to pigment changes and scarring.
The incorrect use of any laser or light-based technology can lead to complications in all skin tones, but unfortunately the risks increase with more pigment. This is why it’s key to find a provider who has extensive experience treating skin tones similar to yours.
SKINCEUTICALS: How can people with skin of color safely use laser treatments?
DR. LIU: Laser treatments for skin of color should be approached with precision and care, and best under guidance of experienced dermatologist. Following such procedures, the introduction of SkinCeuticals Discoloration Defense is recommended to mitigate the risk of skin discoloration. This targeted treatment is formulated to reduce the appearance of discoloration, ensuring that the laser procedure yields the most uniform and radiant results possible.
Non-ablative, fractional, and microsecond or long-pulsed Nd:YAG lasers can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles by stimulating collagen production while being safe for darker skin tones. These lasers also help improve the appearance of dark spots, reduce existing discoloration, minimize the appearance of pores, and fade the look of scarring. Pre-treating the skin with a proper skincare regimen helps further reduce the risk of discoloration.
SKINCEUTICALS: What types of chemical peels are best suited for skin of color?
DR. LIU: Superficial alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) peels with glycolic acid, lactic acid, and malic acid; and beta-hydroxy acid (BHA) peels with salicylic acid, lipo-hydroxy acid, and pyruvic acid are safe and effective for smoothing fine lines, fading dark spots, improving surface texture (including scars), and keeping pores clear. Although superficial chemical peels are relatively mild, a series of treatments can yield visible results. Deeper peels are generally not advised for those with darker skin tones, but a seasoned skincare professional should be able to suggest alternative treatments that can help you achieve your skin goals. You can also ask your provider to test a small area of skin in an inconspicuous location before you commit to a full treatment to ensure you don’t experience any adverse reactions.
While superficial chemical peels such as AHAs and BHAs are favored for their safety profile in treating skin of color, incorporating an at-home regimen with Cell Cycle Catalyst can significantly complement in-office treatments. Regular use of this anti-aging exfoliating serum helps promote a glowing, even skin tone and enhances the benefits of professional peeling by encouraging cellular turnover and refinement of skin texture.
SKINCEUTICALS: What types of treatments are most effective for treating acne in people with skin of color?
DR. LIU: Regular superficial salicylic acid peels are effective for addressing excess oil and clogged pores, although I recommend an anti-inflammatory post-peel skincare regimen . The Hydrafacial™ is another safe option that provides exfoliation while infusing the skin with targeted serums that address a variety of concerns, including acne. Over-the-counter retinol and prescription-based retinoids can also be a safe at-home skincare solution that helps enhance cell turnover to keep pores clear.
SKINCEUTICALS: What types of treatments are best for improving skin tone and texture in people with skin of color?
DR. LIU: Again, light chemical peels can make a visible difference in skin tone and texture in all skin tones, but it’s important to commit to a series of treatments to see optimal results. Dermaplaning and microdermabrasion are safe for refining texture and tone in skin of color as well.
SKINCEUTICALS: Are there any treatments that can help reduce scarring in people with skin of color?
DR. LIU: Microneedling is a particularly advantageous procedure for skin of color due to its minimal risk of post-treatment discoloration. Microneedling can be used to target blemishes, fine lines, uneven skin texture, and over time help with skin rejuvenation. During the treatment, the application of SkinCeuticals Hydrating B5 Gel assists in maintaining optimal skin hydration and adds to the plumping effect. Post-microneedling, the use of SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic or Phloretin CF serum provides a potent antioxidant boost that help protect skin from antioxidants and even skin tone.
The intensity of this treatment can be adjusted to accommodate all skin tones while taking unique healing histories into consideration. Microneedling can be safely combined with radiofrequency, since this energy utilizes radio waves rather than light to stimulate collagen renewal. A few examples include Vivace® and Morpheus8, but again, be sure your provider has experience treating skin of color with these modalities.
SKINCEUTICALS: Are there any treatments available to prevent further skin damage in people with skin of color?
DR. LIU: Any of the aforementioned treatments can be used to maintain skin health at lighter intensities. I always suggest starting with an effective at-home skincare routine, and building on that with professional treatments if the patient desires more significant results.
SKINCEUTICALS: What type of skincare routine should people with skin of color follow before and after in-office treatments?
Dr. Liu: Since everyone’s skin is different, it’s best to follow your provider’s pre- and post-treatment skincare suggestions. They’ll likely advise that you stay out of the sun for at least a week or two before your procedure (as well as for the foreseeable future afterwards), and perhaps recommend a product such as SkinCeuticals Cell Cycle Catalyst to prepare your skin for a chemical peel. Of course, sunscreen is a given both before and after treatment, as is environmental protection with a topical antioxidant such as C E Ferulic or Phloretin CF. In the case of melanin-rich skin, a product such as Discoloration Defense or Phyto A+ Brightening Treatment may be recommended to correct discoloration and promote optimal results. For those with a compromised skin barrier, reparative moisturizers such as Epidermal Repair, Hydrating B5 Gel, and Triple Lipid Restore 2:4:2 can promote optimal post-procedure recovery.
After treatment, a daily vitamin C antioxidant serum and sunscreen are essential to protect the skin from environmental free radicals, pollution, and UV rays that can contribute to the development of discoloration. SkinCeuticals Emollience moisturizer offers gentle hydration that is appropriate for sensitive post-procedure skin. In the case of discomfort after a professional procedure, Biocellulose Restorative Masque instantly soothes, cools, and replenishes the skin.
To learn more about safe and effective professional treatments for skin of color, visit one of our SkinCeuticals SkinLab™ locations or schedule an appointment with a SkinCeuticals Skincare Professional for a one-on-one consultation.
Shop Featured Products
Discoloration Defense
Skin discoloration + dark spot correcting serum
Cell Cycle Catalyst™
Exfoliating Anti-Aging Serum
Hydrating B5 Gel
Vitamin B5 serum with hyaluronic acid
C E Ferulic® with 15% L-Ascorbic Acid
Vitamin C Serum for fine lines and wrinkles
Phloretin CF with Ferulic Acid
Vitamin C serum for discoloration
Phyto A+ Brightening Treatment
Oil-free brightening moisturizer cream for sensitive, redness-prone and acne-prone skin
Epidermal Repair
Soothing face lotion for blotchy skin
Triple Lipid Restore 2:4:2
Anti-aging lipid moisturizer cream
Jenny Liu, MD is a board-certified dermatologist and assistant professor in the Twin Cities. Her interests include ethnic dermatology, complex medical dermatology, and medical education. Online, Dr. Liu shares beauty advice, educates on skin and haircare ingredients, and skin safety.
